Shikoku Pilgrimage Guide: Temple Visits and Nokyo
Contents
The Shikoku pilgrimage is a journey centred on 88 designated temples around the island. The temples are pilgrimage destinations, but they are also places of worship for local communities, so planning should take account of both the journey and the temples’ daily role. The Shikoku 88 Temples Association says pilgrims can choose where to begin and do not have to visit in numerical order; plan your route, transport and lodging around your circumstances, and check the relevant temple’s current information before setting out.
1. Choosing a Shikoku pilgrimage route
There is no requirement to start at Temple 1 or to visit all 88 temples in numerical order. The association’s FAQ says pilgrims may choose their starting temple, while many signs and commercial guides follow the direction from Temple 1 to Temple 88. Knowing that convention can help you interpret signs and guidebooks, but it does not make that direction compulsory. Read the association’s FAQ.
The association calls travel from Temple 88 toward Temple 1 gyaku-uchi, or reverse-order pilgrimage. That is a practical term for the direction of travel, not a separate requirement for pilgrims. If you choose this direction, use current information for the temples you plan to visit rather than assuming every sign or guide will present them in the order you are following.
Ryozenji, Temple 1, is one possible starting point, not the only one. You can begin elsewhere or reverse direction, but you will need to identify your intended stops and check the details for those temples. This is particularly useful if your available time or transport plans do not match a full circuit: the association’s information allows flexibility over the starting point and order, but does not establish one standard schedule for a partial or full pilgrimage.
Ryozenji’s introduction describes the overall pilgrimage as approximately 1,460 kilometres. Treat that as the association’s description of the overall journey, not as a measured distance for every itinerary or transport choice. The distance you cover depends on the temples you select and how you travel between them, and the supplied official information does not establish a universal number of days or accommodation budget. See Ryozenji’s association listing.
A useful way to plan is to decide first which temples you intend to visit, then determine how you will travel between them and where you will stay. Check transport and lodging for your own dates and stops rather than relying on a single duration or cost estimate: those details are not set by the pilgrimage information cited here. For regional context, the existing guides to Tokushima, Ehime and Kagawa can help you think about the prefectures on your itinerary, but you will still need to verify the actual arrangements for each stop.
The association explains dogyō ninin as travelling together with Kōbō Daishi. It is a phrase with religious meaning, not a direction to choose a particular route or travel companion. Whether you are travelling alone or with others, the practical choices—starting temple, order, transport and lodging—remain matters to plan for your own circumstances.
2. Visiting a temple: a practical sequence
The association’s visit guidance offers a sequence for worship at the pilgrimage temples. Treat it as the association’s guidance for visiting, and follow any signs or instructions at the temple you are at. A thoughtful visit also means allowing space for other visitors and remembering that the site is an active temple for local worshippers. See the association’s visit guidance.
At the gate, the association’s sequence is to put your hands together and bow. At the purification place, wash your left hand first and then your right; if you rinse your mouth, take water in your left hand. These steps give visitors a clear order to follow when the facilities are available, but you should also observe the arrangements at the specific temple rather than assuming every site is identical.
Where a bell is freely available to visitors, the association’s guidance describes ringing it once before worship. It also says not to ring it on the way out. The qualification matters: the guidance refers to a bell that is freely available, so do not assume that every temple permits visitors to ring one.
At the main hall, the association describes offering light and incense, placing a name slip and an offering, and reciting sutras. The sequence then continues with a visit to the Daishidō, or Daishi hall. Name slips belong in the designated name-slip box, and copied sutras belong in the copied-sutra box; use the boxes provided rather than placing either item elsewhere. The association’s visit instructions set out this sequence.
Nokyo is normally received after visiting the halls, rather than being treated as the first step of a temple visit. The association’s guidance distinguishes worship from receiving nokyo: its described sequence includes the main hall and Daishidō before the reception. If reception is near its end and you have a reason to receive nokyo before worship, the guidance says to explain the situation to the temple; it does not promise that an exception will always be possible.
Crowding may require a small adjustment. The association’s FAQ says that when the main hall is busy, a pilgrim may visit another hall first, and that a prepared copied sutra may be submitted instead of reciting. These examples can help you respond respectfully to the circumstances at a temple, but follow staff instructions and do not assume that every practical arrangement will be identical on every visit. Check the FAQ for these visit questions.
3. Nokyo hours, meaning and fees
The association describes nokyo as a mark received in connection with offering sutra recitation or copied sutras. It specifically cautions pilgrims not to treat it as a souvenir stamp. Keeping that purpose in mind helps explain why nokyo is normally received after worship and why the association’s guidance treats the reception as part of a religious visit. See the association’s guidance on pilgrimage practice.
The association’s basic nokyo reception hours are 08:00–17:00. The start time changed from 07:00 to 08:00 under the revision effective 1 April 2024. These are reception hours, not a statement of the opening hours of every temple ground or hall; check the relevant temple’s information for the arrangements that apply to your visit. Read the association’s notice about the time and fee revision.
The association’s listed fees, effective 1 April 2024, are:
| Nokyo item | Association fee |
|---|---|
| Nokyo book | ¥500 |
| Hanging scroll | ¥700 |
| White garment | ¥300 |
| Additional seal in a nokyo book | ¥300 |
| Daishi nokyo | ¥500 |
These are the listed nokyo fees, not a complete pilgrimage budget. For example, five nokyo-book entries at ¥500 each would total ¥2,500, and 88 entries at that rate would total ¥44,000. Those figures are arithmetic examples using the listed rate effective 1 April 2024; they do not include transport, accommodation, supplies or other possible costs.
The item you bring affects which listed fee applies. A first entry in a nokyo book is listed at ¥500, while an additional seal in that book is listed at ¥300; a hanging scroll, white garment and Daishi nokyo each have their own listed amount. If you are unsure which item or reception you want, check the association’s fee information and ask at the temple rather than assuming every request is charged at the same rate.
The association’s revision gives a dated basis for these figures, and the rates should not be presented as a guarantee that no later change has occurred. The source was checked on 4 November 2026, and the listed revision took effect on 1 April 2024. Confirm current reception and fees with the relevant temple before travelling, especially if your plans depend on a particular item or a visit close to reception time.
4. Ryozenji and preparation
Ryozenji is Temple 1, at 126 Tsukahana, Bando, Oasacho, Naruto. The association lists its telephone number as 088-689-1111, free parking for 100 cars and 10–20 buses, and no temple lodging. Those details make the listing useful for initial planning, but they do not confirm that a parking space will be available when you arrive or that facilities at other temples will be the same. Check the Ryozenji listing.
For a practical first step, decide whether you want to begin at Ryozenji, then use the association listing to confirm the temple’s details and contact it directly if you need to clarify something before visiting. Its address and telephone number are useful identifiers when checking your plans. Do not infer a route, journey time or transport connection from the address alone; those details depend on your starting point and travel arrangements.
The association says there is no need to buy every pilgrimage item before starting. Pilgrims may begin with items such as a nokyo book or white garment and add what they need later. That makes it possible to make purchases according to your own plan, but the association also cautions that pilgrimage supplies are not sold at every temple. If you want a particular item, check where it can be obtained rather than assuming it will be available at your next stop. See the association’s FAQ on preparation.
Preparation should follow the visit you intend to make, rather than a presumed universal kit. Consider which form of nokyo you plan to receive and whether you want a book, a hanging scroll or a white garment, then check the relevant fee and availability. The sources cited here do not establish a required complete set of equipment, and the association’s advice specifically supports starting with selected items and adding others as needed.
Ryozenji’s listing also identifies it as a temple of Kōyasan Shingon and names Shaka Nyorai as its principal image. These details describe this temple; they should not be assumed to describe all 88 temples. When comparing facilities or planning stops, rely on the listing for the particular temple rather than generalising from Ryozenji’s parking, lodging or other information.
5. Respectful visits and common questions
The pilgrimage temples also serve local worshippers and communities. The association asks pilgrims to take their rubbish away and to avoid loud engine noise and horn use near homes early in the morning. These requests apply whether you are visiting a single temple or travelling between several: consider how your actions affect people who live and worship nearby. Read the association’s guidance on pilgrimage conduct.
The association also discourages taking another pilgrim’s name slip from a temple box. Use the designated boxes for your own name slip or copied sutra, and leave items placed by others in place. When a temple is busy or its instructions differ from what you expected, follow the signs and ask staff where necessary rather than treating customary practices as permission to handle another person’s offering.
Do I have to begin at Temple 1 or visit in numerical order?
No. The association says pilgrims may choose their starting temple and do not have to visit in numerical order. Many signs and commercial guides follow the Temple 1 to Temple 88 direction, so that order may be easier to recognise in some materials, but it is not an obligation. See the association’s FAQ.
What does gyaku-uchi mean?
Gyaku-uchi means visiting in reverse order, from Temple 88 toward Temple 1. It describes the direction of travel, rather than a different required set of temple visits. If you choose it, check the information for the temples on your chosen route and be aware that many signs and guides use the 1-to-88 direction.
How long does the pilgrimage take, and what should I budget for lodging?
The official information cited here does not establish one duration or accommodation budget for everyone. Travel mode, walking ability, dates and the temples selected all affect an itinerary, so a single number would not be reliable for every pilgrim. Plan around your own stops and dates, and confirm transport and lodging arrangements with the relevant providers.
Must I buy all my supplies before I start?
No. The association says pilgrims can begin with selected items, such as a nokyo book or white garment, and add what they need later. It also cautions that pilgrimage supplies are not sold at every temple, so check availability before relying on a particular stop for a purchase. The association’s FAQ covers preparation.
Is it compulsory to receive nokyo or make an additional visit of thanks?
The association describes nokyo as a mark connected with offering recitation or copied sutras, not as a souvenir stamp. Its FAQ also says an orei-mairi, or visit of thanks, is not compulsory. For the purpose and practice of nokyo, follow the association’s guidance and the instructions at the temple you visit. See the association’s pilgrimage guidance.
Can I submit copied sutras instead of reciting, or visit another hall first?
The association’s FAQ says a pilgrim may submit copied sutras prepared beforehand instead of reciting. It also says that when the main hall is crowded, a pilgrim may visit another hall first. These are the association’s stated options; follow any instructions at the temple and ask staff if you are unsure how to proceed.
Are 08:00–17:00 the temple grounds’ opening hours?
No such conclusion follows from the association’s basic nokyo reception hours. The 08:00–17:00 figure refers to reception, and the change from a 07:00 start took effect on 1 April 2024. Check the temple’s own information for access to its grounds and halls, and confirm current reception details before travelling. See the fee and time revision.
Further viewing
The existing video resources offer different perspectives on preparing for and travelling the pilgrimage. Two Pilgrims, One Path presents preparation and a first day, while Cole Prosser presents a guide to the 88-temple pilgrimage. Gael Chasing Trails and Jed and Sandy discuss walking journeys among the temples; Lyndon’s Adventures and The Shikoku Henro also present pilgrimage journeys and guides.
